Kayaking Abel Tasman

November 2

 

The seal popped its head out of the water, looked around, inhaled, and went back under.  It did this numerous times, following each of the 5 kayaks in our group.  We were in Shag Cove, a small inlet only navigable just before and after high tide, a part of Abel Tasman National Park on the north end of the South Island.

We’d started the day with a bus ride from Nelson to Abel Tasman.  Then we boarded a motor boat which was being hauled by a tractor.  We were towed into the ocean, then the boat was released.  We took what can only be described as an “E ticket ride” for about 20 minutes, leaping over whitecaps and then dropping back down into the water.  If we’d had any illusions about staying dry they were quickly refuted.  We and our kayaks were deposited in a very windy cove called Awaroa. The water was colorful and beautiful – varying from light green to dark green to bright blue, with plenty of whitecaps.  The day was sunny, comfortably warm, but the wind was blowing at about 15 knots.  We later learned that guides can alter trips when the wind reaches 15 knots, and likely cancel them at 20 knots, but ours kept more or less to the original agenda.

Our group of 8 tourists, in 4 double kayaks, plus a guide received a safety briefing, kayak skirts (to keep the water out), and eventually a launch into some of the most challenging water Jeff and I have ever kayaked. 

The first wave splashed us quite a bit which confirmed that even with the kayak skirts we would get quite wet.  It wasn’t the only one to lift the front of the kayak out of the water. Within a few minutes we were quite damp, and fighting both waves and wind to paddle out of the cove.  Each wave was considerably less than a meter tall, but they came at us quickly and we struggled to make forward progress.  It was probably about 30 minutes of near-total exertion to exit the cove and reach waters that were headed our direction.

Once we got out of the cove, we were able to surf/paddle our way along the shore.  It was almost like outrigger canoeing, without the outrigger.  The waves were taller here, but not really breaking.  We rode quite a few of them, and eventually reached a calm cove.  Sam, our guide, offered biscuits (cookies) to everyone as a reward for successfully tackling the most difficult water of the day.  And it was nice to relax our arms for a bit in the calm waters. 

When we went back out of the cove, it wasn’t quite so rough.  We reached Shag Cove which was incredibly tranquil.  The water was light green, almost aqua, and one or two strokes could propel us quite a distance.  It felt like the 9 of us were the only people on the planet.  We watched the seal follow each boat in turn, had more biscuits, and explored the area.  Another seal joined us briefly.  The only sounds were the paddles in the water, and occasional bird calls.  We had decided not to risk any electronic equipment, so we have only mental snapshots of this amazing and tranquil place.

We paddled a bit more, had lunch at another small cove.  It was clear that everyone had gotten wet, but everyone was also having lots of fun.  Before we re-launched  for the afternoon, Sam gave the group the choice of going to Tonga Island where we could see more seals but would be paddling into the wind to get there or “sailing.”  As we’d seen several other seals in addition to the ones at Shag Cove we elected to sail. 

Sailing consists of getting all 5 kayaks lined up, then hoisting a square of about 3 meters to a side.  Everyone stows their paddles except for the back people in the outside kayaks (we were on the outside right).  These paddles become the masts. Then the front people in the outside kayaks hold the bottom of the sail.  Everyone is holding onto the adjacent kayak(s).  Then the sail is hoisted and, we sailed for a few minutes.  Did I mention that it was quite windy, and that we struggled to stay together in quite bumpy waters until everything was set up?  Anyway, we sailed until we couldn’t stay together anymore, which only took a few minutes.  At the “let go” we were propelled about 100 meters, as the boat next to us.  The other 3 boats remained pretty still.  Suffice it to say, it was rather, um, exciting for a moment, but everyone managed to stay upright.

All told we figure we kayaked about 8km or 5 miles. And had a fantastic experience!