Fiji saved the biggest surprise for last. Savusavu, the port we didn’t expect to visit, the port we only learned about a day or two before arriving. Unlike Dravuni (the scheduled port), Savusavu’s dock was in good repair. The night before our arrival, plans were made through one of Lily’s connections for a snorkel trip.
Nineteen of us met, took the tender ashore, found the tour, and headed for the boats. Uh oh, two small rowboats, with seating for 14 and life preservers for about 14. This didn’t bode well. After much discussion, we crammed into the boats with a few kind people offering to sit on the bottom of the boat instead of the wood benches. Thirty minutes. OK, we can do that. But it turned out to be 30 minutes Fiji time, so probably closer to an hour.
We head towards … somewhere. There were lush green mountains in the distance, and we deduced which one the pilot was aiming for. Ominous skies, with rain clearly coming down in some areas. Calm seas turned rougher, and there were more whitecaps. Between the many splashes and couple of short rainstorms, we got fairly wet. Wonder where we’re heading. Is this actually a “three hour tour” like Gilligan’s island? Was this a mistake? Finally spot something on the horizon. We get closer to it. Eventually see what appears to be a small structure and a large group of people standing on a tiny sandbar which is surrounded by very light green water, a definite contrast to the darker green and blue water elsewhere. Now we’re confused. Is someone else using our island? Do we have to turn back?
The island was tiny. Total area (at relatively high tide) was probably less than half a basketball court, though as the tide went out it eventually grew to be a bit larger than a full basketball court. [this photo downloaded from the internet]
Nope, it wasn’t invaders or poachers. Quite the contrary, it was at least 35 members of the local Fijian community there to welcome us ... meaning they outnumbered us 2:1. They had decorated the shelter, procured fresh coconuts, prepared a lunch, and were waving and singing as we approached (all, we learned later, prepared after the tour was confirmed at about 10 the previous evening). We got out of the boats, greeted each other (“Bula!”) and were each handed a coconut and a straw so we could drink the coconut water. So welcoming! So much love and positive energy between the singing, the coconuts, the genuine smiles.
Our guide let us know not to go into the water yet. Seems the “Fijian protocol” required her to go to the village, meet with the chief (an inherited position) and get permission for us to be there. No worries, we enjoyed the coconuts and prepared our gear. Once we had permission, many of us entered the water. Warm but not hot. Tiny waves lapping at the island. Clear pale green water. I did a bit of snorkeling but saw only a few fish.
Decide the snorkeling isn’t very good so get the idea to swim around the island. After all, when have I ever had the opportunity to swim around an island before, and when would I have another chance? Two women joined me, as well as a man who wasn’t swimming but declared himself to be our official photographer and waded with us. Mission accomplished. The international women’s team successfully circumnavigated Nukuramase Island!
After returned to where we started we learned from others that the snorkeling was better than I’d thought, I just hadn’t gone out far enough. So back out. More fish, including sergeant majors, a nice-sized school of brown fish, a few white fish, more of the little neon blue fish, a purple fish, and others. Saw a blue sea star, and by blue I mean electric blue, with five long, skinny legs. Seems to be a Blue Linckia Sea Star — absolutely gorgeous!
After lunch (the fresh pineapple was fantastic!) during which there was more singing, we had more time in the water followed by relaxing on the sand under and near the shelter. Saw several small critters and a fist-sized crab.
Then it was time to go so we packed our gear. Before getting into the boat, a group picture with everyone. And a goodbye song. With dancing. First time I’ve seen a sandbar converted into a dance floor. Pretty soon most of the North Americans were dancing with Fijians, while the older Fijians were singing. By now, even though we didn’t know each other’s names, it was like leaving family.
We loaded up. Our boat circled the island — we waved until we’d passed the island and the Fijians were still waving when we stopped. We then headed back to the ship which, fortunately it was a faster ride with rather than against the wind and the pilots successfully outraced a storm.
After returning to the dock a few of us walked to the nearby earthcache which is my easternmost cache find at E 179° 19.900 (the anti-meridian is at 180 degrees and I’m typing this at about W 177°). As we returned to the dock and the queue to return to the ship via tender we were startled by long rumbling thunder, then a severe squall that probably dropped an inch of rain in less than 15 minutes. Needless to say, the squall stopped tender service for awhile and we later learned the wind reached 24 knots. Just a bit of déjà vu from our Kiriwina experience, though this was much quicker and we soon returned to the ship.
We crossed the anti-meridian at about 10pm and celebrated the occasion with another meeting of the White Robe Society (something that started on the Danube cruise and has continued at other important places such as crossing the Arctic Circle and the anti-meridian, though I’ve missed some other the gatherings such as the one crossing the equator).
I went on the excursion for the snorkeling. But this experience wasn’t about the snorkeling, it was about so much more than that. Definitely a “this is why I travel” day, and one that I’m sure I will share stories about for some time. Vinaka (thank you), Fiji, for some amazing experiences!
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